While the title of my column is oh-so-catchy, it’s also rooted in reality, because I’ve moved around A LOT.
Between birth and my current ripe old age of 28, I’ve lived in two countries, four cities and many neighborhoods within those cities—five in Montreal alone. I guess I like to keep things fresh?
Many of these areas happen to have a significant Jewish presence. Consider this sequence:
- Toronto: Thornhill
- Montreal: Dollard-des-Ormeaux, Hampstead and Westmount
- New York City: Chelsea
- Montreal again: The Plateau and Mile End
- Vancouver: Fairview, Kitsilano and East Vancouver
These days, I’m in downtown Toronto. Maybe not a Jewish setting per se, but one packed with nostalgic retail and residential legacies, and a bigger community presence compared to when I was born.
So, let’s get nomadic, with a tour of my childhood and teenage homes.
Thornhill
I liked to joke that I was born on Mount Sinai (womp womp) but everyone in Toronto knows it’s also just the name of a hospital with a maternity ward. And then, for the first wee bit, I lived in the 905—a nickname derived from the area code that came into existence during the same year as me: 1993.
The countless number of baby photos, which tend to proliferate when you’re the first child in a family, make me feel as if I have solid memories of that time. (But, let’s be real, I’m only remembering the photos.)
Still, moving back to Toronto gave me a better sense of where my life began.
Thornhill can feel like a mini-Israel sometimes. Total strangers wished me “Chag Sameach” as I walked by over the High Holidays. Over yom tov, there were barely any cars on the road. Talk about being surrounded by the tribe!
It’s a quiet place, with beautiful homes, and a surprising amount of suburban greenery. What’s not to love? Plenty, if you’re an angsty teen who dreams of escaping these environs.
Mind you, I was only back for a month, so my explorations were minimal. But if your priorities involve kosher food, the Sobeys store has everything you could imagine—the kind of thing you probably need to get a little older to appreciate.
Dollard-des-Ormeaux
I grew up in this very Jewish suburb in the West Island of Montreal.
Dollard is a bit like Thornhill, including the fact that it’s a predominantly English-speaking area to this day. There’s also a Sephardic community of French-speaking Jews, who mostly came from Morocco. But, aside from in day school, the communities remain pretty separate.
Best park: Centennial, hands down. It was here that I went from tricycle to bike sans training wheels (hurrah!), climbed to the top of the spider web in the playground, took photo shoots for a variety of family occasions and went for many a Shabbat walk.
Food: The deli counter at Paradise Kosher. Kosher restaurants in the West Island are scarce –you have to go into the city for those—but this was where we often went for a quick bite.
My childhood order: Toasted baguette with turkey slices, banana peppers, tomato, lettuce, mayonnaise and a mango Spring drink. And probably one of their mouthwatering chocolate danishes with powdered sugar for dessert.
The owners are delightful and there’s always vibey Middle Eastern music in the air. It’s also a grocery store, so pick up all you need while you’re there.
Recreation: The Civic Centre is one of my favourite places in Dollard. The library is where I spent most of my time emptying out the shelves of the children’s section. I also learned how to skate in their massive arena.
We used to go every week—either after Shabbat or Sunday mornings—and I was rewarded with a Hershey’s Cookies ’n’ Creme chocolate bar for my labour. (They also have many arts classes, and a summer camp.)
Hampstead
I very briefly lived here. But visiting my grandparents kept me coming back.
As a kid, I had a terrible sense of geography (and I probably still do) and never quite understood where Hampstead was. My parents would always say, “We’re going into the city!”
When I got out of the car, it felt like I was in another world, every single time. I wasn’t quite sure how it happened.
Nevertheless, the area is yet another very Jewish community, mostly modern Orthodox.
There are a lot of shuls around, too. I spent many years in the halls of Adath Israel. (Which is formally named Adath Israel Poale Zedek Anshei Ozeroff.)
Best kosher restaurant: While technically in a neighbouring area, Yakimono Sushi Bar is worth a short drive. (Five minutes, friends.) With an extensive menu of creative sushi rolls, their food is incredible. The place is always packed, though, so be sure to make a reservation.
Westmount
Later into my teens, I lived part of the time in this affluent neighbourhood, known worldwide as where Leonard Cohen grew up. It’s known for its designer shops and beautiful homes sloping up the hill.
Best park: The one named Westmount is a lovely for a long stroll in the summer months. And it’s home to another great Montreal library.
Best ice cream: Bilboquet. Gourmet dairy on Sherbrooke ouest! Plus, if you go on your birthday, they give you a free fancy cupcake.
Best shop: Be sure to check out our Bonjour Chai podcast sponsor Atelier Lou Bijouterie for all your jewelry and watch needs. The store is a staple of the Westmount community and a favourite spot for engagement and wedding rings, which you can get custom-designed. (Be sure to tell Eric I sent you.)
The Plateau
Okay, don’t get me started on this incredibly hip neighborhood. I basically lived on rue St-Laurent, spending almost every day in a different café or rehearsal hall.
Best theatre: MainLine is a staple of the Plateau community and the hub for the Montreal Fringe Festival. When I was first starting out as both an actor and director, I put on many plays there.
Best grocery store: Segal’s Market is a hidden gem, right next to MainLine, and has the cheapest, best produce and dry goods in the area. I’m talkin’ quality products at half the price. It’s a little bit chaotic, but you will save loads. (Just make sure to bring your own bags, because they don’t offer plastic at all.)
Best coffee shops: Café Neve and Café Myriade for a chill atmosphere to meet a friend or catch up on work. Both are on the smaller side, so if you want more space check out Dispatch Coffee—a very modern open-space concept with lots of power outlets.
Best bar: La Majestique Montreal is my go-to for cocktails. The eclectic decor and wild menu has me coming back for me. It’s more on the pricey side, but even one drink is worth the experience.
Mile End
This neighbourhood is a mix of hipsters and Hasidic Jews. Nothing like walking by an overall-clad mustachioed dude on a vintage bike, as he passes by a group of shtreimel wearers walking to shul. It’s pretty epic.
Best bakery: Cheskie’s! (Boulangerie Cheskie, technically.) A classic Mile End spot with the best babka in town, which is two doors away from…
Kosher meat: Check out the smoked meat poutine at Deli 365 on rue Bernard. This little counter has delicious takeout, plus prepared foods.
Best café: Le Dépanneur is a gorgeous partially open-air spot with a big menu and live music all day. I’ve even performed there a few times with my trusty ukulele.
Best bookstore: Librairie Drawn & Quarterly is my favourite in all of Montreal. While mostly known as a graphic-novel publishing house, D&Q carries an incredible selection of fiction, non-fiction, poetry, philosophy and more. I can spend hours in this hip little shop. They also have a “petite” version of the store down the street.
***
Well, kids, that’s been my tour for today. But if you’re interested in more travel talk, visit my memories of Barcelona, Los Angeles and Salt Spring Island right over here. Or you can head over here for the Toronto explorations that kicked off this column last fall.
Check back soon for a tour of Vancouver and, if you’re lucky, maybe even New York City.
Of course, as Canada reopens, I’ll also get back to checking out live events and places I’ve yet to see. (And hopefully you will, too!)
Ilana Zackon can be reached at ilanawritesthings[@]gmail.com and found on Facebook and Instagram.
HEAR what else she has to say every week on Bonjour Chai
