During the joyous holiday of Sukkot we gather in our sukkah to eat, sing and tell stories, just as our ancestors have done for generations.
Sukkot is a true holiday of bonding as moms, dads and children assemble temporary dwellings of sweet smelling branches and leaves, then decorate them by hanging fruits and vegetables from their “sides” and “ceilings.”Building the sukkah and eating and sleeping inside can be a precious childhood memory.
For New York chef and restaurateur Jeffrey Nathan, Sukkot is a time to practise what he preaches in his book, Jeff Nathan’s Family Suppers. In it, he emphasizes the importance of not only eating but also cooking with your children. And that’s exactly what he does during Sukkot, when the Nathans assemble the sukkah together and then cook the meals they will eat under its leaves and branches.
“Now that Jackie and Chad are teenagers they’re busy with friends and a million activities. But being home on Friday night and Saturday and during the Jewish holidays like Sukkot is sacrosanct.
“I love the family feeling of it,” Nathan says. “Getting in the kitchen with my wife, Ali, and our kids is our biggest pleasure. I think we’re closer because we cook together.
“How many things are there that you can do as a family that are as much fun as cooking?” Nathan asks. “We laugh at our mistakes. I keep reminding them that, as Julia Child said, if something doesn’t turn out right, you can just eat it – and nobody else has to know.” He smiles.
Since Sukkot celebrates the harvest, it’s traditional to serve a variety of autumn fruits and vegetables. A beautiful fresh salad is perfect.
Nathan shares his family tradition of the Salad Mystery Basket.
“We go to the farmers market or the produce section at the supermarket and buy whatever looks the freshest – whether it is bok choy or mesclun or baby carrots. We put everything into a basket, bring it home, and the kids assemble their own salads.
“They’re in charge. They make up the recipe, including the dressing. Of course, I’m on the sideline explaining which raw items go together. And what dressing accentuates the flavours.
“But I encourage them to develop their own likes and dislikes. They’re learning that everyone’s taste is different. And I encourage that. I hate wine snobs. I want them to develop their recipes around whatever is pleasing to them. Don’t try to like something just because someone else tells you it’s good.
“I want to build their confidence. And their sense of adventure.”
“Since we’re eating outside during Sukkot, we want dishes which can be transported easily from the kitchen to the sukkah,” says Alison, a chef in her own right. “So we do a lot of one-pot meals. We serve hot soup out of a tureen. It’s wonderful, as it’s often cold in October.”
In Israel, stuffed vegetables are a staple during Sukkot. Stuffed peppers, eggplant, mushrooms, squash, tomatoes or onions are great because they come with their own intrinsic container.
“Instead of washing the bowl, you can throw it out,” Jeff says with a laugh.
Nathan divides the cooking chores according to each person’s talents and likes. Jackie, 14, is very artistic; so she’s in charge of stuffing the vegetables and making them look pretty. She also has patience; so she gets the job of cutting the tiny tips off the green beans or spooning out an indentation in the mashed potatoes, filling it with gravy, and then sprinkling herbs all around,” Nathan says.
Jackie loves setting the table and arranges the utensils right out of Miss Manners, he adds. But Chad, 17, has no patience – he does the heavy work like getting the barbeque ready, shopping with his dad and putting everything in the dishwasher. He also loves standing over the grill.
“When the kids were younger, I was more hyper and they were intimidated and always afraid of making a mistake. Now, I’m more relaxed so we have more fun,” Nathan says.
“You can learn so much in the kitchen,” he adds, “from teamwork and co-operation, to planning what to make and figuring out what you’ll need. I get to teach them about the importance of eating healthy food – what is healthy – and why they should wash their hands before they start to cook. I’ve become a real food safety nut,” he laughs. “And I always wash my produce carefully with a good fruit and vegetable wash.
“Of course, it’s not all just educational; we have fun too. I usually don’t tell people – it’s kind of our secret – but we have food fights. It’s always outside on the deck and it usually involves chocolate mousse. Even there we play our roles. The kids are throwing the mousse at each other. I’m chiding them to stop. But once Ali starts telling the kids to ‘get dad,’ the game is quickly over,” he says with a laugh.
“The best part about cooking together is just looking at their faces as they’re tasting something they’ve made. When we’re gathered around the table and I see Jackie beaming about something she’s cooked, it’s like manna from heaven. She’s so happy and proud of herself. And then you know that you’re doing something right.”
All but the first of the following recipes are from Jeff Nathan’s Family Suppers.
Prepare the vinaigrette and the vegetables the day before Sukkot. Right before serving, assemble individual salads.
Grapefruit vinaigrette
grated zest of 1 grapefruit
1/4 cup fresh grapefruit juice
2 1/2 tbsp. fresh lime juice
1 tbsp. honey, or less if desired
1/2 tsp. chopped fresh thyme
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
For salad
2 dozen fresh asparagus, trimmed of woody stalks, then grilled
1 large pink grapefruit, peeled, seeded and divided into sections
2 ripe avocados, peeled and diced
1 ripe papaya, peeled, seeded and diced
1/2 cup toasted pine nuts
1 lb. lamb’s lettuce (you can substitute Boston lettuce or baby spinach)
Vinaigrette: Combine grapefruit zest and juice, lime juice and honey in covered container. Shake to emulsify. Slowly whisk in olive oil, salt and pepper for 30 seconds. Allow vinaigrette to sit for at least 1 hour or overnight before serving.
Salad: The day before Sukkot, wash and dry the lettuce and place it with a paper towel in an airtight plastic bag. Working over a medium bowl to catch the juices, supreme the grapefruit by cutting off the thick peel where it meets the flesh, then cutting between the thin membranes to release the segments. Place segments in a bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Splash avocado in the juice, place in bowl with the papaya, and store both bowls in refrigerator overnight.
To serve: place lettuce on individual plates. Artfully arrange asparagus, avocado, grapefruit segments and papaya on top of lettuce. Sprinkle with pine nuts. Pour vinaigrette into small pitchers and place on table for guests to help themselves. Makes 6 servings.
White Bean Soup with Garlic and Rosemary
1 lb. dried white kidney (cannellini) beans
1/3 cup plus 2 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
4 medium carrots, chopped
2 medium celery ribs, chopped
1 large red or yellow bell pepper, cored, seeded and chopped
12 garlic cloves, chopped
2 ripe plum tomatoes, cut into 1/2 in. dice
1 tbsp. chopped fresh rosemary
1 1/2 tsp. dried oregano
1 tsp. hot red pepper flakes
1 gallon water
kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Place beans in large bowl and add enough water to cover beans by 2 inches. Let stand for 8 to 12 hours. Drain well.
Heat oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add onion, carrots, celery, bell pepper and garlic. Cook, stirring often, until vegetables are softened, about 12 minutes. Add the drained beans, tomatoes, rosemary, oregano and red pepper flakes; reduce heat to low. Cook until tomatoes soften, about 7 minutes. Stir in the water. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low. Simmer until beans are very tender, about 1-1/4 hours. During last 15 minutes, season with salt and pepper. In batches, transfer soup to a blender and puree. Transfer to soup tureen and season with salt and pepper. Serve hot.
Poached Apricots with Lemon and Thyme
This is the perfect Sukkot dessert – light, beautiful and delicious. Serve this dessert as compote, with regular or non-dairy vanilla ice cream or whipped topping.
2 cups water
1/2 cup fresh orange juice
1/2 cup honey
1/4 cup sugar
zest and juice of 1 lemon
1 3-in. cinnamon stick
1 lb. dried apricots
1/4 cup almond-flavoured liqueur
1 tbsp. chopped fresh thyme
a few gratings of fresh nutmeg
non-dairy vanilla ice cream or whipped topping, for serving
lemon zest, cut into julienne, for serving
Combine 2 cups water, orange juice, honey, sugar, lemon zest and juice and cinnamon in a medium saucepan. Add apricots; bring to a simmer over medium heat, stirring occasionally. Partially cover the saucepan with the lid; simmer until apricots are tender, about 10 minutes.
Remove from heat and add liqueur, thyme and nutmeg. Cool until warm (or cool, cover and refrigerate until chilled). Serve, spooned over ice cream and topped with julienne lemon zest, if desired. Makes 6 to 8 servings.
4 sweet bell peppers, red, yellow, orange or green stemmed, halved, deveined and seeded
1 cup Italian-seasoned dry bread crumbs
1/3 cup plus 1 tbsp. golden raisins, plumped and drained
6 boneless anchovy fillets, finely chopped
1/4 cup capers, drained and rinsed
2 tbsp. chopped fresh parsley
2 tbsp. chopped fresh basil
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more as needed
freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/2 cup canned tomato sauce, as needed
Preheat oven to 400. Lightly oil a large baking sheet. Place peppers skin side down on the sheet. In a medium bowl, mix together bread crumbs, raisins, anchovies, capers, parsley and basil. Add oil and stir well to make a crumbly mixture the texture of wet sand. Season with pepper. Spread bread crumb mixture in a thin layer onto the cut surface of each pepper. Drizzle each with a bit of olive oil and top with tomato sauce. Bake until peppers are wilted and the crumb filling is golden brown, about 25 minutes. Serve hot, cool or at room temperature. Makes 4 servings.
