When Ziva Naumann’s family gathers for her annual Rosh Hashanah dinner, each of her children and grandchildren expects to be called upon.
Not to roast the eggplant for a half-hour on each side for the babaganoush. Not to add the olive oil in a slow steady stream to the taramasalata (a dip or spread). Not even to sauté the onions until golden for some of the best chopped liver in the country. Although on most holidays cooking is a group effort for this family, this Rosh Hashanah feast is Naumann’s gift to her family. Of course, she expects something special in return.Before they go to the temple to welcome the Jewish New Year, each person will recount his activities of the past year – rejoice in what he did right, reflect upon what he did wrong, analyze, in the warmth of the family, how he might have done it differently. Then he’ll take a moment to give thanks and set goals for the upcoming year. This might include asking for help from other members of the family.
“One year we found out that one of the grandchildren needed open heart surgery,” Naumann says, the memory still painful. “Because we’re together, we don’t panic. Adversity brings you closer.”
As Naumann pours the kosher wine and passes the Moroccan chicken, she scrutinizes her Rosh Hashanah table, smiling at the various configurations – who’s there, who’s in New York or Israel, who’s having dinner with their in-laws. And she realizes how much she has to celebrate. But Naumann never celebrates. She revels. She kvells. In each accomplishment – large and small – of every member of her family.
And when it’s her turn to talk, where does she begin? Selfless acts, circumstances changed, lives saved. For this is no ordinary woman. In many ways, her life is like her Middle Eastern meal—bitter and sweet, multi-textured, with a large dollop of love in every bite. Most importantly, Ziva Naumann is a role model for the New Year when we’re all called upon to examine our lives.
It’s a given that she’s a meritorious matriarch and the attractive adhesive that binds her family together.
But what about founding – with her own money – the Levitt & Quinn Family Law Center for the working poor in Los Angeles (with lawyers Ethel Levitt and Grace Quinn), and helping thousands of needy people who had nowhere else to go? What about driving from her comfortable Los Feliz neighbourhood to one of the scariest parts of Los Angeles, placing her life in jeopardy every day, to enlighten people about their legal rights when they thought they had none?
And when the non-profit law firm needed money to keep going, for at the beginning, it was always in danger of going under, Naumann organized fundraisers – rummage sales, barbecues, buffet dinners – catering them herself, to help pay the rent. She also used her cooking skills to cater fancy Hollywood parties, weddings and bar mitzvahs to supplement her own income. Although she often worked 12-hour days to keep the law centre going, her salary was, in her own words, “a modest honorarium.” (Today, thanks largely to Naumann, the firm is a thriving, self supporting entity.)
When Naumann had leftover food, it went straight to the homeless – at the end of the party, she’d pack it up with some disposable plates and send her teenage kids downtown to distribute it.
As for Naumann’s catering, “it started as a complete fluke,” she recalls fondly. Her friends Shelly and Avery Schreiber were having a party to celebrate the completion of a film, and needed a caterer. “Most caterers were exorbitant, and in a moment of brilliance – or desperation – I said I’d do it,” Naumann recalls.
“There were supposed to be 250 guests, but 400 people showed up. I put my five children to work – teenagers always need money – including my adopted daughter, Denise, who’s an artist and created the most ingenious presentations. From that time on, my phone was ringing off the hook. I always loved cooking, especially Middle Eastern food,” says the Israeli-born Naumann, her accent very much a part of her charm.
“On Rosh Hashanah, there’s a superstition that whatever you’re doing at the beginning of the New Year will forecast what you’ll be doing all year long. So naturally, I want this to be my best meal of the year. Everything needs to be sweet – apples dipped in honey, Moroccan chicken with prunes, honey cake. During the High Holidays, our challah is round, which gives everyone the same shot at having a good year. That way, everyone can be at the “head” – not at the “tail” of the bread.
According to Naumann, this recipe actually tastes better if it’s cooked, allowed to sit in the refrigerator overnight, and served the next day. “Its flavour is improved by standing,” she says. Dried apricots, peaches or sultana raisins may be substituted for the prunes.
2 kosher chickens, weighing about 3 to 3-1/2 pounds each
2 large onions, grated
7 oz. margarine
salt to taste
1 heaping tsp. black pepper
1 tsp. saffron
1 cinnamon stick
1 lb. pitted prunes
4 tbsp. thick honey
1 heaping tsp. cinnamon
7 oz. blanched almonds, roasted until light golden brown
Place chicken, onions, margarine, salt, pepper, saffron and cinnamon stick in large, heavy pot. Add 2 cups water. Cook over moderate heat on top of stove until chicken is tender and flesh flakes off bones easily, about 1 hour. Remove chicken to platter. To same pot in which chicken cooked, add prunes; simmer 15 minutes. Add honey and cinnamon. Boil sauce down until it’s syrupy and thick. Pour sauce over chicken. Just before serving, decorate with almonds. Serves 8 to 10.
Although holidays are a time for feasting and not worrying about cholesterol, I was happy to learn that Naumann’s recipe has just a tad of oil and no chicken fat so it does “minimum damage.” The best part is it’s the most delicious chopped liver I’ve ever tasted. Make sure the chicken liver is fresh, not frozen.
2 large onions, chopped
olive oil for sautéing
2 lb. fresh chicken livers
2 hard-boiled eggs, peeled
salt and pepper to taste
2 tbsp. good quality cognac
Sauté onions in minimum amount of olive oil until golden. Broil or grill chicken livers until deep brown, being careful not to dry them out. Grind onions, chicken livers and egg in meat grinder. Add salt, pepper and cognac; mix well. Refrigerate until it’s time to serve. Serves 8 to 10.
vegetable oil for sautéing
1 1/2 to 2 cups chopped walnuts
4 garlic cloves, peeled and pressed
1 1/2 cups boiling chicken broth (homemade, if available)
juice of 1 large lemon
1 cup sliced green onions
1/2 cup pitted, sliced black olives
1 1/2 cups instant couscous
1 tsp. lemon zest
salt and pepper to taste
1 lemon, sliced into wedges for garnish
In large skillet over medium flame, heat oil. Add walnuts and garlic; cook for 2 minutes. Add broth, lemon juice, green onions, and olives; bring to boil. Stir in couscous and lemon zest, remove from heat. Cover and allow to sit for 5 minutes. Toss with fork; season with salt and pepper. Garnish with lemon slices. Serves 8 to 10.
Naumann’s good friend and fellow Israeli, Adda Smilove, gave her the idea of wrapping the eggplant in foil before roasting it. This eliminates the huge mess associated with this easy, delicious recipe.
1 medium to large eggplant, 14-16 oz.
1/4 cup tahini
1/4 cup lemon juice
3 cloves garlic, crushed
2 tsp. salt or to taste
1 tsp. white pepper
2 tbsp. olive oil
parsley sprigs for garnish
Wash eggplant; wrap in several layers of heavy foil. Grill on medium flame or broil in oven 30 minutes on each side. Remove, and when cooled, peel off eggplant skin. Place eggplant flesh in colander and drain for two hours to get rid of bitter flavour. Place eggplant in bowl and mash with a fork. Combine eggplant with tahini, lemon juice, garlic, salt, pepper and olive oil in blender or food processor; puree until smooth. Adjust seasonings. Store in refrigerator until ready to serve. Serve at room temperature in shallow dish garnished with parsley, warm pita wedges and assorted raw vegetables.
From Naumann’s daughter-in-law, pastry chef, Susan Shulman. For those of you who don’t like honey cake, forget all the dry, hackneyed honey cakes of the past and prepare yourself for a real treat.
2 1/2 cups all purpose white flour
1 tsp. baking soda
1 tsp. baking powder
1/2 tsp. salt
1 tsp. nutmeg
1 tbsp. cinnamon
1 cup brown sugar
1 cup honey
2 large eggs plus 3 egg whites
1 tsp. vanilla extract
1 tbsp. apple brandy
1/3 cup vegetable oil
1 tsp. lemon zest
1 cup applesauce
2mlarge Granny Smith apples, peeled and grated
1 cup chopped walnuts
1/2 cup golden raisins
powdered sugar for dusting
Sift together flour, baking soda, baking powder, salt, nutmeg and cinnamon and reserve for later. On medium speed, beat sugar and eggs together until fluffy. Add honey, beat well. Add vanilla and brandy; drizzle in oil, beating well to thoroughly blend ingredients. Add zest, applesauce and grated apples, beating on slow speed to incorporate.
On slow speed, add dry ingredients, beating until batter comes together. Do not overmix. Fold in walnuts and raisins. Turn batter into large, greased and floured rectangular baking pan or bundt pan; bake at 350 for 40 minutes or until toothpick comes out clean. Cool before removing from pan. Dust with powdered sugar before serving. It may be served warm or at room temperature. Serves 12.
