TORONTO — United Bakers Dairy Restaurant, family owned by the Ladovskys for 100 years, welcomed its fourth generation to the restaurant recently.
Nathan Ladovsky, 22, who recently graduated from Dalhousie University, is working in the kitchen and as a bus boy for the summer.
Whether he joins the business full time is up in the air at the moment, he said.
But he’s proud to be part of a tradition that started in 1912, when his great-grandparents, Aaron and Sarah Ladovsky, opened United Bakers as a dairy and pareve restaurant on Agnes Street near Terauley (what is now Dundas near Bay.)
To commemorate the 100th anniversary, the Ladovskys are having a “Four days in May” celebration, May 14 to May 17, featuring daily entertainment, music, menu specials, surprises and give-aways during lunch and dinner.
In 1920, after eight years at the original location, the restaurant moved to 338 Spadina Ave., and in 1986, the Ladovskys opened a branch in Lawrence Plaza, at Bathurst Street and Lawrence Avenue. The legendary Spadina location closed two years later.
Although there was no formal menu when it first opened in 1912, among the restaurant’s favourite offerings were pea and vegetable soup, cabbage borscht, gefilte fish and cheese blintzes. These items – cabbage borscht only on Fridays – are served to this day.
Aaron and Sarah’s son Herman joined the business and worked at the Spadina Avenue location for 60 years, and Herman’s children, Philip and Ruthie, are United Bakers’ current owners.
Nathan said that a highlight of his week is when his grandmother, Dora, Herman’s wife, comes into the restaurant, and he is able to make her a “special” grilled cheese sandwich.
In an interview with Philip and Ruthie at the restaurant, Philip said that many years ago, the two of them decided that they would be proud to carry on the family tradition.
Their first big decision was to open the Spadina location on Sundays.
“This 100-year anniversary is thrilling to us. Imagine being part of this business, and remaining true to its roots.”
Ruthie said that although they still serve the longtime favourites – they shook things up some years ago by adding dill to the soup – their menu has evolved.
“We now have veggie burgers, grilled salmon with wasabi, rainbow trout, eggplant parmesan, Israeli salad – something for everyone. There is such a wide variety of menu items that some customers eat here two or three times a day. We respond to what customers are looking for.”
Without question, however, soups are one of the favourite menu items. “Its not Monday in our business, its vegetable soup day, and its not Wednesday, it’s potato soup day. Every day though, is pea soup day,” Ruthie said.
They serve comfort food that everyone grew up with, she said.
“It’s always consistent and always tastes the same. Our customers count on that. Our father was able to make every customer feel at home, and we try to do the same.”
It’s not only the customers who feel at home, said Phillip. “The staff is like an extended family. Some have been with us since we moved here.”
Nathan said he feels like he grew up with a bunch of mothers. “When I would come in to visit, they would greet me warmly, with lots of questions.”
The staff shares the customers’ joys and sorrows, said Philip.
“They come to UB when they have their first child, their first grandchild, when they’ve gotten married, and when they [get up] from shivah. We share in their rights of passage.”
