VALLETTA, Malta — Every country I have visited had something special to offer.
The traditional brightly painted fishing boats luzzus owe their design to the Phoenicians. Still in use today the luzzu has survived because it tends to be a sturdy and stable boat even in bad weather. [Robert Shechter photo]
When we were planning to visit Malta, I knew beforehand what that special thing was going to be: its intense sense of history, spread over 7,000 years, starting with the mysterious, megalithic monuments predating the pyramids by a millennium. Through the centuries, there had been more or less friendly conquests by Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans, Aragonese, French and finally the British.
I was also counting on being attracted to Malta’s charming Mediterranean setting. Straddling the sea between Europe and Africa is a string of three lovely islands: Malta, the main island; Gozo, green and slower paced; and Comino, practically uninhabited but one of the main summer tourist playgrounds with its beaches and beautiful Blue Lagoon.
I was excited to explore Maltese (Malti), a fascinating Semitic language originating with the Phoenicians and augmented by the period of Arab domination, sprinkled with many inserts from the nearby Italian speakers.
I was also curious about the British tradition left from 150 years of British presence, a legacy that influenced the way of life of the Maltese in different ways, most noticeably in the fact that all Maltese speak English as well as Maltese and that they drive on the left side of the road.
I got all this, as expected, and much more.
Indeed, Malta’s history is unique and quite extraordinary, but what touched me most during our visit to Malta was the people, these friendly, gregarious, generous, exuberant people. We made many friends in Malta – our hosts from the apartment we rented, the bakers next door, taxi drivers and people on the street.
We loved the food, basically Mediterranean, but also with local favourites such as the mouth-watering pastizzi, pastries filled with cheese or peas, and the local drink, the flavourful Kinnie, a soft drink made with oranges and herbs.
Due to its small size and efficient transportation system, Malta is easy to explore. We enjoyed the capital city, Valletta, with its gorgeous auberges of the Knights of St. John fame. The auberges were the living quarters of the various groups of knights. We also enjoyed the Co-Cathedral, replete with art; the stately Grand Master’s Palace; the steep streets; the many museums, restaurants and shops; and the superb panorama from the Upper Barakka Gardens over one of the best harbours of the Mediterranean.
We travelled all over the islands: from Marsaxlokk, a lovely fishing village with the colourful luzzu boats, to stately Mdina, a city where quiet and serenity reigns, and to the historic Citadel of Victoria on Gozo Island.
History stares you in the face wherever you visit on the islands: extraordinary megalithic temples can be explored on Malta and Gozo. The Knights of St. John’s fortifications, cathedrals and palaces tell not only of centuries of warfare but also of architectural and artistic achievements.
The history of Malta also attests to a continuous Jewish presence on the islands. The small Jewish community goes back 3,500 years, when Israelite mariners from the seafaring tribes of Zebulon and Asher arrived in Malta, together with the Semitic Phoenician settlers. Menorahs carved on the walls of catacombs in Rabat confirm the existence of a community living here during Roman times.
During the Middle Ages, Jews settled here from Sicily, Sardinia, Spain and North Africa, and lived an independent and prosperous life. The majority were shopkeepers and merchants, but some held prestigious posts, such as Abraham Safardi, who was the island’s chief physician.
In 1492, the Jews of Malta, like those of Spain, were told to either leave or convert to Catholicism. Many of the names found today in Malta carry the heritage of the conversos: Ellul, Salamone, Azzopardi.
During World War II, Malta rescued thousands of Jews from Nazi Europe, accepting them without a visa.
The current Jewish community, about 90 people, includes longtime residents, as well as more recent arrivals, both Sephardi and Ashkenazi. A very resourceful group of people, they bring in matzah from England and kosher wine from Israel, and a rabbi from Jerusalem officiates during High Holy Days.
Abraham Ohayon, the synagogue president, keeps an eye on the community activities that include a Hebrew school, Shabbat services and bar and bat mitzvah preparation. The community is in close contact with Israel.
Alas, our two weeks in Malta flew by too fast. On my last day, a quiet sunny day, I returned to my favourite place, the Upper Barraka Gardens. I sat there with the turquoise Mediterranean sparkling below, with a view of the three fortified cities of Cospicua, Vittoriosa and Senglea across the harbour, and my can of Kinnie next to me, revisiting my freshly acquired memories of a great visit, of superb views, incredible history and the nicest people.
For more information, visit www.visitmalta.com