I’m not sure if it’s the thought of warmer climes during our months-long winter cold that has me pairing fruit with meat. Or if it’s because I’m from Montreal where residents, I’m told, have an unusual affinity for sweet and savoury combinations. Or, perhaps, it’s as simple as the fact that I have a sweet tooth.
Whatever the reason, I’m especially fond of roasting all manner of meat, red meat or fowl, with fruit stuffings, glazes and accompaniments. The fruity, sun-ripened flavour of fresh and dried fruit, in my opinion, helps bring out all the meat’s succulence and adds an extra note of depth to the dish. For Passover this year, my recurring theme is to add a hint of fruit, be it to lamb shanks, turkey breasts or the finale of the meal.So, even though the first seder falls in April, with its promise of sun in the following weeks, it’s easy to provide a delicious jump-start to warmer weather with these pleasing fruit-enhanced main courses.
This deeply satisfying dish, with its richly coloured and flavoured sauce, can be made ahead. In fact, it’s even better made the day ahead, to let the flavours mingle and develop.
1/3 cup finely ground matzah meal
3/4 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. pepper
6 lamb shanks (each about 3/4 lb.)
3 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
4 cloves garlic, minced
3 carrots, finely chopped
2 stalks celery finely chopped
1 tbsp. dried basil
2 tsp. dried thyme
1 tbsp. finely grated lemon rind
2 bay leaves
2 cups chicken stock
2 cups full-bodied kosher for Passover red wine
1 cup canned crushed tomatoes
2 tbsp. tomato paste
1 cup dried pitted prunes
2/3 cup halved dried apricots
chopped fresh parsley
In large shallow bowl, combine matzah meal, salt and pepper. Coat each lamb shank lightly. Reserve leftover matzah meal.
In large Dutch oven, heat half the oil over medium heat. Brown lamb in batches to avoid overcrowding, for about 8 minutes, turning to brown on all sides. Transfer lamb to roasting pan.
Heat remaining oil in Dutch oven. Add onion, garlic, carrots and celery, stirring to scrape up any brown bits. Cook, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes or until softened. Stir in basil, thyme, lemon rind, bay leaves and 1 tbsp. of reserved matzah meal and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Pour in stock, wine, tomatoes and tomato paste; bring to a boil. Stir in prunes and dried apricots. Pour over lamb in roasting pan.
Bake in centre of preheated oven at 350 for about 2 hours or until meat is very tender and almost falling off the bone. (Recipe can be made ahead to this point, covered and refrigerated. Before serving, bring meat and sauce to room temperature. Reheat in oven at 250 for 1 hour).
Transfer meat to platter. Pour sauce into saucepan. Bring to boil; boil gently for about 15 minutes or until thickened and reduced by half. Spoon over lamb and garnish with chopped fresh parsley. Makes 6 servings.
Grocery shelves are lined with an amazing array of differently flavoured honeys. Pick your favourite for this easy recipe. Cornish hens may be a bit more expensive than regular chicken, but the presentation of half a hen for each guest makes up for the budgetary lapse.
4 Cornish game hens
1/2 cup kosher for Passover dry white wine
3 tbsp. honey
2 tbsp. chopped fresh thyme
1 tbsp. chopped fresh basil (or 1 tsp. dried)
2 bay leaves
1 tbsp. grated orange rind
1/2 cup peach juice
2 small onions, sliced
1 tbsp. kosher salt
1 tsp. pepper
Glaze:
16 basil leaves
1/2 cup kosher for Passover peach jam
Cut wing tips from hens. Cut through backbones to divide hens in half; trim excess fat and skin. Set aside.
In large bowl, stir together wine, honey, thyme, basil, bay leaves, grated orange rind, peach juice, onion slices and half of the salt and pepper. Stir in hens, coating well. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or for up to 24 hours, stirring occasionally.
Preheat oven to 425. Discarding marinade, lay hens, skin side up, on foil-lined baking sheet. Gently loosen skin from each breast and leg, leaving skin attached on one side; place 2 basil leaves under skin of each hen. Brush peach jam evenly over skin. Sprinkle with remaining salt and pepper. Roast in centre of preheated oven for 40 to 45 minutes or until lightly browned, juices run clear when hens are pierced with a fork and meat thermometer registers 180F. Broil for 3 to 5 minutes to finish caramelizing the jam. Makes 8 servings.
This impressive roast is destined to be a crowd pleaser. The date, cranberry and nut stuffing so expertly complements the turkey that it may just become a year-round entertaining specialty.
1/4 cup olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
3 cloves garlic, minced
3/4 cup pitted and finely chopped dried dates
1/2 cup dried cranberries (preferably unsweetened)
1/3 cup finely chopped hazelnuts
1/4 cup finely chopped fresh parsley
1 tbsp. chopped fresh sage
1 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. pepper
14 lb. boneless turkey breast, skin on
2 tbsp. balsamic vinegar
2 tsp. potato starch
2/3 cup chicken stock
In large ovenproof skillet set over medium heat, heat half of oil. Add onions and garlic, and cook, stirring, for about 3 minutes or until softened. Stir in dates, dried cranberries, hazelnuts, parsley, sage, 1/4 tsp. of the salt and half of the pepper. Cook for 1 minute. Remove from heat and let cool slightly.
Butterfly turkey breast by slicing almost in half horizontally. Then open up like a book. Flatten slightly with meat mallet if necessary. Leaving 1-inch edge uncovered on all sides, spread date mixture evenly over meat. Starting at narrow end, roll up. Tie at 2- or 3-inch intervals with kitchen string. Combine 1 tbsp. of the olive oil and 1 tbsp. balsamic vinegar, and brush all over top of breast. Sprinkle with remaining salt and pepper. Heat remaining tablespoon of oil in skillet. Brown turkey for 2 minutes per side until well browned on all sides.
Transfer to preheated oven at 400 and roast for 30 to 40 minutes or until juices run clear and meat thermometer registers 170F.
Transfer meat to cutting board; tent with foil. Place skillet over medium heat; sprinkle with potato starch, whisking. Whisk in remaining tablespoon of balsamic vinegar and chicken stock, whisking to loosen any brown bits on bottom skillet. Bring to boil. Boil slightly for about 3 minutes or until juice is glossy and lightly thickened. Slice meat and serve with juices. Makes 8 to 10 servings.