Kitchen science, good food

The Science of Good Food by David Joachim and Andrew Schloss with A. Philip Handel  (Robert Rose Inc.) is an excellent encyclopedic guide and reference book that will bring the science of food to home cooks and professionals alike.

This A to Z reference book contains more than 1,600 entries, arranged alphabetically and cross-referenced, touching on a variety of scientific disciplines, from biology and chemistry to agriculture and nutrition. You’ll learn how copper bowls affect eggs, what kind of grill gives you the best crust on a steak, how butter tenderizes cake, why artichokes make certain foods taste sweeter and what causes some people to think cilantro tastes like soap.

There are 200 colour photographs and more than 100 recipes that show the reader how to put the information into practice.

Food industry professional Andy Schloss, writer, teacher and author of 13 cookbooks, and one of the co-authors, explains: “The ultimate goal throughout the book is to provide practical information that you can use to create better-tasting food. The straightforward explanations of the what, how and why of food and cooking are intended to help you become a better and more confident cook. After all, cooking and science are really after the same thing: helping us to enjoy life. We hope this book helps you do just that.”

Entries are broken into three sections called What It Is, What It Does and How It Works. There are also practical tips included in Kitchen Wisdom boxes, while more detailed science information appears in Science Wise Boxes, and food trivia items are included in a Fast Facts section.

When the weather is hot and you don’t feel like spending long hours in the kitchen making time-consuming meals, there’s nothing simpler or more satisfying than a hearty salad. Here are two simple salads, along with some helpful kitchen science from The Science of Good Food for your reading and eating pleasure. Enjoy the sweet taste of success!

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The most common cabbages are green, red and savoy types. Savoy cabbage has a somewhat looser head than green and red types, with softer, ruffled leaves. It’s also milder in flavour. These types can be eaten raw in salads like coleslaw, or fermented to make sauerkraut. Cabbage can also be braised, steamed or boiled, then used as a wrapping for ground meats.

Napa cabbage more closely resembles an elongated version of green or savoy cabbage. It has broad pale green leaves in a somewhat tightly packed, bullet-shaped head. Napa cabbage tends to be moister, more tender and milder in flavour than other cabbages.

 
APPLE AND CABBAGE COLESLAW

 
Always start coleslaw by salting the cabbage to rid it of extra moisture. The easiest way is in a colander set in a sink. That way the excess cabbage juice runs down the drain and doesn’t dilute the dressing.
 
2 lb. cabbage, any type, cored and thinly shredded
2 large Granny Smith apples, coarsely grated
2 tsp. kosher salt, divided
Dressing:
1⁄4 cup sour cream
3 tbsp. mayonnaise
3 tbsp. red wine vinegar
2 tbsp. orange marmalade
2 tbsp. ketchup
1 tbsp. hot pepper sauce
1⁄4 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1 bunch green onions, trimmed and thinly sliced
 

In a large colander set in a sink, toss cabbage and apple with 1-1⁄2 tsp. of the salt and let stand for 10 minutes.

Dressing: in a large bowl, combine remaining salt, sour cream, mayonnaise, vinegar, marmalade, ketchup, hot pepper sauce and pepper.

Squeeze excess moisture from cabbage and apples and add to the dressing along with green onions; toss to combine. Refrigerate for about 1 hour before serving. Makes 8 servings.

 

WARM SPINACH SALAD WITH WHITE BEAN VINAIGRETTE

 
Dressing:
1 can (14 oz.) cannellini beans or white kidney beans, drained and rinsed (1-1/2 cups)
1 clove garlic, halved
1/4 cup white wine vinegar
2 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
1 tsp. kosher salt
1 tsp. hot pepper sauce
1/4 cup hot water
Salad:
1 lb. spinach leaves, stems removed
6 oil-packed sun-dried tomatoes, drained and cut into strips
3 green onions, trimmed and sliced
1/3 cup pitted black olives, quartered
 

Dressing: in a blender or food processor, puree beans, garlic, vinegar, oil, salt, hot pepper sauce and hot water until smooth. Transfer to a skillet.

Salad: in a large salad bowl, toss together spinach, sun-dried tomatoes, green onions and olives.

Heat dressing over medium-high heat until simmering, stirring often. Add more water if needed to keep it the texture of unbeaten cream. Toss dressing with salad. Serve immediately. Makes 6 large servings.

Norene Gilletz is a cookbook author, cooking teacher and food consultant. For information, call 416-226-2466 or visit her website at www.gourmania.com.