Israeli food and history in eyecatching new book

Janna Gur’s gorgeous new book, The Book of New Israeli Food (Shocken Books, September 2008), puts Israel on the culinary map – exactly where it deserves to be.

This book is a feast in every way. The recipes and photography are awesome. Not only are the recipes well-written and easy to follow, it is also a fascinating pictorial history of modern Israel. If you aren’t actually in Israel, you’ll want to hop the next flight to Tel Aviv!  And even if you’re not a cook, this book would make a wonderful souvenir to bring home with you.

Gur is the founder and editor of Israel’s leading food and wine magazine.  “In less than 30 years,” Gur writes, “Israeli society has graduated… to a true gastronomic haven.

“Twenty to 30 years ago, the only memorable culinary experience tourists might have had was a good hummus in the Old City of Jerusalem or a hearty Israeli breakfast at a hotel.”

Today they can experience world-class wines, excellent locally produced cheeses that rival those of Europe, sophisticated cuisine created by celebrated Israeli chefs, and delicious local ethnic food.

With full-colour photographs of both the food and the places, this book is cookbook, guide book and history book.  Recipes include standards such as falafel, shawarma, pita and cholent, as well as updated dishes like Figs Stuffed with Bulgur and Cranberry Salad,  Fish Ceviche with Eggplant Cream and Chocolate and Halva Coffeecake, many of them coming from Israel’s top restaurants chefs.

Information on open air markets, fishing in Israel and the Israeli Shabbat add to the book’s appeal. A section on special ingredients identifies the unusual, although most are easily obtained and will be at least somewhat familiar to most cooks. Beautiful and comprehensive, this book will become an immediate favourite with anyone who has even a passing interest in Israeli cuisine.

The author also does a good job of explaining all the differences between ingredients, all the equipment you might need and recipes for spice mixes and condiments that may be difficult to find outside of Israel.


Figs Stuffed with Bulgur and Cranberry Salad

Figs, fresh or dried, with their sweet luscious flesh and firm skin, are perfect for stuffing. Here is a light, healthy dish to start off a meal.

10 fresh figs
pomegranate concentrate, for serving
3 1/2 oz. bulgur wheat
water
1/2 cup dried cranberries, chopped coarsely
1 cup carrots, grated coarsely
2-3 tbsp. fresh coriander, chopped
1 tsp. sesame seeds, roasted
3 tbsp. pecans, chopped
2 tbsp. pomegranate concentrate

Soak the bulgur wheat in water for 4-5 hours, until it swells up and softens.  Or add half a cup of water to the wheat and cook in a microwave oven for 3-4 minutes until the bulgur softens and absorbs the water.  Allow to cool.

Mix the bulgur with the other salad ingredients. The preparation up to this point may be done in advance and the salad kept in the refrigerator.

Halve the figs and scoop out some of the flesh, which you can add to the salad. Place two fig halves on each plate, heap on the salad, sprinkle with pomegranate concentrate and serve. Serves 10.

Turkish Salad

This red piquant booster to your pita is prepared with fresh vegetables that “cook” in the refrigerator.

1 large onion, chopped
2 tomatoes, diced finely
2/3 cup fresh parsley, chopped
1 sweet red pepper, diced
1 tbsp. tomato paste
1 1/2 tbsp.ketchup
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tbsp. olive oil

Mix the onion, tomatoes and chopped parsley and add the red pepper, tomato paste and ketchup. Season with salt, black pepper and olive oil.  Refrigerate overnight.
Take out of the refrigerator half an hour before serving. Serves 4-6.

Tahini Dip

Once you have made it at home using the best raw tahini (available in Middle Eastern groceries), you will never again touch the ready-made variety.  Serve the dip with warm pita bread, alongside hummus dishes, salads, falafel and the like.

1 cup top quality raw tahini
1-2 tbsp. freshly squeezed lemon juice
2-3 cloves garlic, crushed (optional)
salt to taste

Whisk all the ingredients in a large bowl and gradually add ice-cold water.  Don’t be alarmed when the first bit of water makes the paste thick and lumpy. Keep whisking and adding liquid and the mixture will get thinner and silky smooth. The amount of water depends on the desired consistency – one-half cup for a thick tahini dip, one cup or even a bit more for a thin sauce suitable for pouring over vegetables or falafel.

Green Tahini Dip:  Add 1/2 cup parsley, 1/4 cup coriander and 1/4 cup mint, all chopped, to the basic tahini dip recipe.

For more substantial quantities, use a blender. Bear in mind that blending heats the tahini, so use ice cubes instead of water. This will keep the tahini white and ensure a pleasant, stable texture.  Serves 4-6.

Chocolate and Halva Coffeecake

Also known as babka, the following version combines traditional chocolate filling with Middle Eastern halva, with an irresistible result. Strand halva is the most convenient to use here, but you can use regular halva (crumbled) as well. Another special ingredient is halva spread. Outside Israel, it can be found in Middle Eastern groceries and kosher stores.
These ingredients are sufficient for 2 loaf pans.

Dough
4 cups bread flour
1 cup less 1 tbsp. water
2 oz. fresh yeast
1/2 cup sugar
pinch of salt
1 egg
2 egg yolks
1 tsp. vanilla extract
3 1/2 oz. butter, softened

Chocolate-Halva Filling

7 oz. (1 cup) halva spread

9 oz. strand or regular halva, crumbled
7 oz. (1 cup) chocolate chips

Syrup (optional)
1 cup sugar
1 cup water

Place all dough ingredients except the butter in a mixer fitted with a kneading hook and knead for 7 minutes. Add butter and continue kneading for 5 minutes. The dough should be shiny and very soft. Transfer to a greased bowl, cover and allow to rise to twice the original size.

Divide the dough in half and roll one piece on a well-floured surface to a 9×12-inch rectangle.

Spread the dough rectangle with a thin layer of halva spread. Sprinkle on the strand or crumbled halva and chocolate chips and roll into a log. Slice the log lengthwise and braid the two pieces. Place in a loaf pan lined with baking paper and tuck in the edges of the cake so it fits snugly into the pan.  Repeat the process with the second piece of dough in the second pan. Allow to rise to twice the original size.

Preheat oven to 350. Bake the cakes for 35-40 minutes until deep golden brown.

While the cakes are in the oven, bring the water and sugar to a boil and simmer for 20 minutes. Brush the hot cakes with the syrup. They will keep fresh wrapped in foil for 3-4 days and can also be frozen.

Sue Epstein is the author of Budget Cooking-Elegant Dining and Simply Delicious.