The word “kugel” refers to the fact that kugels were originally made in a kugeltopf, an earthenware jar that sat on top of a soup or stew, and was essentially steamed as opposed to baked. Historically, it wasn’t until well after the Middle Ages that most common folk owned an oven. Until then, only wealthy people had ovens in their home, and the townsfolk had to go to a common area, the local baker or the town’s wealthy overlord, to bake their breads, sometimes for a fee.
Hence, the popularity of steaming a kugel. In fact, at that time, it was much easier to regulate some water or stew over a fire than in a rudimentary oven. With the popularization of the home oven in the mid-19th century, kugels increasingly became a baked dish. With the introduction of affordable sugar, they also made the leap into the sweet realm. Nowadays, you can pick and choose your kugel, and I sincerely hope you’ll try the ones below, one for a dairy meal, one pareve and one sweet.
Sweet kugel with dried cherries and pistachios
The perfect brunch meal, this can be served at any time of year. During Passover, use the broadest kosher for Passover noodles you can.
o 1 lb. wide egg noodles
o 1 cup dried sour cherries, chopped
o 2 cups whipping cream
o 2 cups cottage cheese
o 4 large eggs
o 2 large egg yolks
o 3/4 cup granulated sugar
o 1 cup dried sour cherries, chopped
o 2 cups crushed matzah
o 2/3 cup shelled pistachios
o 2 tbsp. unsalted butter, melted
In a large pot of boiling salted water, cook the egg noodles until al dente, about 8 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 350.
In a large bowl, whisk the whipping cream with the cottage cheese, eggs, egg yolks and sugar. Add the dried cherries to the bowl and then the noodles and stir. Pour the mixture into a 9-by-13-in. ceramic baking dish.
In another bowl, toss the crushed matzah with the pistachios, melted butter and a pinch of salt. Scatter the matzah mixture over the noodles and bake in the centre of the preheated oven until the noodle kugel is set and the topping is golden, about 45 minutes. Transfer the kugel to a rack and let cool slightly before serving.
Sweet potato and kale kugel
This is a terrific kugel for a luncheon during Passover or for when you’re having a dairy meal.
o 2 tbsp. unsalted butter
o 1/2 large onion, chopped
o 5 cloves garlic, minced
o 2 tbsp. chopped fresh or dried chives
o 3/4 tsp. salt
o 1/2 tsp. pepper
o 2 tsp. potato starch
o 2 cups whipping cream
o 3 sweet potatoes, thinly sliced
o 3 cups coarsely chopped fresh kale
o 1-1/2 cups shredded Swiss cheese
o 2 tbsp. grated Parmesan cheese
Preheat the oven to 375. Lightly grease an 8-in. square glass dish.
Melt the butter in a large non-stick skillet set over medium-low heat. Add the onion and garlic; cook, stirring, just until the onion starts to turn golden, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in the chives, salt and pepper, and potato starch. Cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute. Pour the cream into the skillet; bring to a boil. Remove the skillet from the heat.
Arrange 1/3 of the sweet potatoes slices, slightly overlapping, in a single layer in the prepared pan. Layer with 1-1/2 cups of the kale and about 1/4 of the cheese. Repeat with another layer of sweet potatoes, another layer of kale, a layer of cheese and a final layer of sweet potatoes. Pour the cream mixture over this evenly. Top with the remaining cheese and the Parmesan. Cover the dish tightly with foil and place on a large rimmed baking sheet.
Bake in the centre of the preheated oven for 30 minutes. Remove the foil. Bake for 30 to 40 more minutes or until the potatoes are tender and the top is a golden brown. Let stand for 10 minutes before serving. Makes 8 servings.
Potato, turnip and carrot kugel
The turnip and carrot add some natural sweetness to this kugel, which is nicely balanced by the earthy tones of the mushrooms.
o 5 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
o 2 large onions, cut in half and sliced into half moons
o 4 large cloves garlic, minced
o 8 oz. chopped fresh mushrooms
o 2 tsp. dried thyme
o 1 tsp. salt
o 3/4 tsp. pepper
o 6 russett potatoes, cut into wedges
o 2 turnips, cut into large pieces
o 1 large carrot, cut into large pieces
o 4 large eggs, lightly beaten
o 2 tbsp. coarse matzah meal
Preheat the oven to 400. Pour 3 tbsp. of the oil onto the bottom of a casserole dish. Place on a rimmed baking dish and place inside the oven.
Heat the remaining 2 tbsp. of oil in a large non-stick skillet set over medium heat. Add the onions, garlic and mushrooms to the skillet. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are golden and the mushrooms are starting to brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Stir in the thyme, salt and pepper and remove from the heat.
Meanwhile, in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the shredding attachment, or using a hand held grater, shred the potatoes, turnips and carrot. Transfer the mixture to a colander. Using large handfuls, squeeze out as much excess moisture as you can. Transfer to a large bowl. Stir in the onion/mushroom mixture, stirring until it is well distributed. Stir in the eggs and matzah meal until well mixed.
Remove the casserole from the oven. Carefully swirl the pan so that the oil coats the side of the casserole (or use a brush to do this). Transfer the potato mixture evenly into the pan. Bake in the centre of the preheated oven until golden and cooked throughout, 55 to 60 minutes. Serves 8
Photo: Jen Approved Recipes
